Kosode T-shirt

Simply put, a "Kosode" is a kimono style worn from around the Kamakura and Muromachi periods through the Edo period (originally, it was an undergarment worn beneath robes in the Heian period). It is the prototype for the modern kimono.

The "Kosode T-shirt" is a T-shirt inspired by the Kosode of the Momoyama period.

 

Momoyama Period Kosode

The photo below shows "Merrymaking under the Cherry Blossoms" (painted by Kano Naganobu, collection of the Tokyo National Museum), dating to the 17th century.

Note the shortness of the sleeve length (yuki). For each of the figures, the sleeves only cover up to the elbows.

 

Reference: https://emuseum.nich.go.jp/detail?langId=&content_base_id=100159

 

Here is a Momoyama Kosode.

Reference: https://bunka.nii.ac.jp/heritages/detail/184892

 

In the Momoyama period, even women wore it without "ohashori" (the adjustment of length by tucking the fabric at the waist and securing it with a cord), and the style allowed for sitting cross-legged or with knees raised.

Because of this, the Momoyama Kosode gives a sturdier, more compact impression. Even compared to the 17th-century Kanbun Kosode (photo below), you can see that the Momoyama Kosode has a shorter bodice and smaller sleeves (more precisely, a shorter sleeve width).

The Kanbun Kosode gives the impression of being worn by tall, slender people, but this is due to a change in wearing style rather than a sudden change in the Japanese physique.

 

Reference: Kosode with Wave and Mandarin Duck Design on Black Crepe

 

Kosode T-shirt

While the Kanbun Kosode and modern kimono forms are certainly stylish, the Momoyama Kosode takes the lead in terms of comfort.

The shorter sleeves of the Momoyama Kosode are perfect for a summer T-shirt, offering excellent ease of movement.

 

Sleeve Openings (Furi) and Miyatsuguchi

The actual Momoyama Kosode shown above does not have a "furi" (a sleeve opening). In other words, the armhole is sewn shut from top to bottom. The same applies to the first folding screen painting shown above.

On the other hand, the bottom part of the sleeve is not sewn in the second screen painting, presumably because the subjects are children.

Basically, if I were basing this strictly on the Momoyama Kosode, I think it would be more authentic to sew the armholes shut and remove the furi. However, for the sake of comfort this time, I have included both sleeve openings (furi) and "miyatsuguchi" openings.

Miyatsuguchi refers to the openings under the armholes at the side seams. These were originally introduced in the Edo period when obi belts became wider and were tied higher, intended to contribute to the ease of arm movement (among other benefits).

By having both the furi and the miyatsuguchi, airflow is increased, further enhancing comfort.

 

Straight Cut

In addition to finishing the armholes with straight cuts just like a kimono, there is little difference between the front and back of the collar. Therefore, it can be worn with either side as the front.

Since there is a difference in length between the front and back hems, I hope you will enjoy wearing it according to your preference or height.

 

Materials

There are four types of materials being announced this time. True to the Play KIMONO concept, each uses high-quality, luxurious fabrics.

 

KAJIF

Composed of 68% polyester and 32% cotton, this is an incredibly comfortable synthetic fiber that harmonizes the best qualities of each.

It is also multifunctional, featuring stretch, antibacterial and odor-resistant properties, quick-drying, and water-repellency.

The first sample I made used this KAJIF fabric, and I found myself reaching for it every morning, to the point where I spent 90% of a summer wearing just this T-shirt.

 

Colors

White, Gray, Blue, Bordeaux, Black

 

Linen

This is a 100% linen knit that was specially knitted for us. Linen is a popular material even for summer kimono. Strictly speaking, the hemp often used for kimono is ramie, but we chose linen this time.

Linen is also a natural material that combines water absorbency, quick-drying, breathability, and durability.

Because the thread has some stiffness, it may stretch if pulled with great force, but it will return to its original shape when wetted (it is not a problem for normal wear). Please wash separately, especially in the beginning, as there is a possibility of color bleeding for darker colors.

Because it is loosely knitted, it is quite sheer. Therefore, this JUBAN-T shirt is the perfect piece for midsummer, as you can feel the breeze passing through.

 

Colors

Beige, Gray, Purple, Black

 

Washi Inlay

Composed of 70% Washi (Japanese paper) and 30% polyester.

Inlay fabric is similar to sweatshirt fabric but has the characteristic of being firmer and less prone to stretching.

Washi has remarkable functionality, including water absorbency, quick-drying, deodorizing, antibacterial properties, and the ability to absorb both water and oil. Despite being a thick fabric, this is a luxurious JUBAN-T shirt containing 70% Washi.

 

History

Because producing fabric containing Washi requires high technology, it is often thought of as a cutting-edge material. However, it has been worn for over 1,000 years, such as in the "kamiko" (paper robes) worn during the Omizutori ritual at Todai-ji Temple, and worn by figures like Shinran Shonin.

Even in today's kimono market, there are products like "shifu" (paper cloth), which is woven from Washi thread, though they are extremely rare.

It is a material that has a strong affinity with Play KIMONO.

 

Seasonality

April to November, etc.

Because of its thick and reliable fabric feel, and considering the long summers we have today, it is finished as a T-shirt that can be used from spring through autumn. In addition to the comfort of the natural material, its various functional features allow for wear across a wide range of seasons.

By combining it with the Haori coat that we plan to release soon, it is a piece that you can enjoy using from early spring to late autumn.

 

Colors

White, Beige, Blue-Gray, Black

 

Washi Tenjiku

A knit composed of 60% Washi and 40% polyester.

It uses a Tenjiku (jersey) stitch and is knitted thinner than the Washi Inlay.

 

Seasonality

May to October, etc. It is finished as a T-shirt that can be enjoyed for a long time, including through the height of summer.

 

Colors

White, Beige, Black

 

 

Supplementary Notes

We have also created a KIMONO skirt; wearing them together will allow you to enjoy the "kimono feel" even more. It is also genuinely comfortable.

The KIMONO hoodie was designed with sleeves inspired by the Kosode of the Edo period and beyond, including modern kimono. The Kosode T-shirt is a Japanese-style garment suitable for summer that takes advantage of the mobility of the Momoyama Kosode, and I would be very happy if you could enjoy that sense of historical style as well.